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Responsible procurement and complex product chains: the case of chemical risks in textiles
Södertörn University, School of Life Sciences, Environmental science.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-7215-2623
Södertörn University, School of Life Sciences, Environmental science.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-8695-8265
Södertörn University, School of Life Sciences, Environmental science.ORCID iD: 0000-0001-8536-373X
Södertörn University, School of Culture and Communication, Media and Communication Studies.ORCID iD: 0009-0003-6178-6537
Show others and affiliations
2012 (English)In: Journal of Environmental Planning and Management, ISSN 0964-0568, E-ISSN 1360-0559, Vol. 55, no 1, p. 95-111Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Routledge, 2012. Vol. 55, no 1, p. 95-111
Keywords [en]
responsible procurement, product chains, complexity, textiles
National Category
Environmental Sciences Sociology (excluding Social Work, Social Psychology and Social Anthropology)
Research subject
Baltic and East European studies; Environmental Studies
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:sh:diva-15109DOI: 10.1080/09640568.2011.581885ISI: 000302021600006Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-84855456426Local ID: 1744/42/2008OAI: oai:DiVA.org:sh-15109DiVA, id: diva2:485488
Part of project
Chemicals in textiles: managing environmental and health risks from products with complex product chains, The Foundation for Baltic and East European Studies
Funder
The Foundation for Baltic and East European Studies, A035-2008Knowledge FoundationAvailable from: 2012-01-29 Created: 2012-01-29 Last updated: 2024-10-09Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Toxic Textiles: Towards Responsibility in Complex Supply Chains
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Toxic Textiles: Towards Responsibility in Complex Supply Chains
2017 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

The governance of the environmental and health problems that follow in the wake of globalised trade is one of the great contemporary challenges. One of these challenges is the management of chemical pollution and associated risks, and one sector facing this challenge is the textile industry, which has complex supply chains spread across continents. At the same time the role of actors on the playing field are changing and market actors are being called on to responsibly manage the issue of chemical risks and associated challenges. However, governance and control are often obstructed due to complexity and considerable knowledge uncertainty. This situation complicates responsibility-taking and makes it difficult to ascribe liabilities to specific actors, as it is not obvious who is responsible for what. This thesis is concerned with the process of how a group of market actors – private and public textile buyers – assume responsibility of chemical risks in their supply chains in a situation that is characterized by uncertainty and complexity. This thesis aims to contribute to an understanding of what happens when market actors are called on to manage the negative side effects of globalisation. The focus is on Swedish textile-buying private and public organisations. The thesis constructs an analytical model based on the key concepts responsible governance, responsibilisation, and responsible supply chain management (RSCM). The thesis explores the barriers, challenges and opportunities that exist for buyers seeking to assume RSCM and whether a process of responsibilisation can be observed in the textile sector. The thesis uses an exploratory approach and interviews, participatory observations and literature studies, as well as case studies to understand the process and to investigate barriers, challenges, opportunities. In summary, the thesis shows that a process of responsibilisation is ongoing on the organisational and sector levels. Further, it is shown that due to the complex structures of the chains, there are more barriers and challenges than opportunities for buyers striving for RSCM. However, it is argued that cooperation, stronger public and private policy, and a reflexive approach could be ways forward towards RSCM and increased responsibilisation in the textile sector.

Abstract [sv]

En av våra samtida stora utmaningar är hanteringen av de miljö- och hälsoproblem som följer i svallvågorna av en globaliserad handel. En av dessa utmaningar rör hanteringen av kemikalierisker. Inom textilbranschen är produktionen kemikalieintensiv och handelsmönstren karakteriseras av komplexa varukedjor som inte sällan sträcker sig över flera kontinenter. Samtidigt pågår en förändring av inblandade aktörers roller, där marknadsaktörer uppmanas att på ett ansvarstagande sätt hantera frågan om kemikalierisker och de utmaningar som hör därtill. Denna process försvåras ofta till följd av ett komplext samhälle präglat av kunskapsbrister. Detta komplicerar ansvarstagande och gör det svårt att hålla specifika aktörer, såsom företag och inköpande organisationer, ansvariga, då det inte är uppenbart vem som är ansvarig för vad. Denna avhandling undersöker hur en grupp marknadsaktörer – privata och offentliga textilinköpare – tar ansvar för kemikalierisker längs med sina varukedjor i en situation som karaktäriseras av osäkerhet och komplexitet. Avhandlingen syftar till att fördjupa förståelsen för vad som händer när marknadsaktörer uppmanas att hantera miljö- och hälsorisker från till exempel kemikalier i textil. Fokus ligger på svenska privata och offentliga textilinköpare, som exempelvis kläd- och textilföretag, offentlig förvaltning och andra inköpande organisationer. I avhandlingen konstrueras en analytisk modell baserad på nyckelbegreppen responsible governance, responsibilisation och responsible supply chain management. Avhandlingen är explorativ och genom intervjuer, deltagande observationer och litteraturstudier samt fallstudier undersöks en potentiell process av ansvarstagande samt de hinder, utmaningar och möjligheter som de inköpande organisationerna möter i sitt arbete med kemikalierisker längs med sina varukedjor. Resultaten belyser en pågående process av ansvarsförfarande på både organisations och sektornsivå. Avhandlingen visar också att på grund av kedjans komplexa struktur så förekommer större hinder och utmaningar än möjligheter för de textilinköpare som strävar efter ansvarstagande. Trots detta pekar resultaten på att samarbete, kraftfullare styrmedel och ett reflexivt tillvägagångssätt skulle kunna vara en väg mot ökat ansvarstagande inom textilsektorn.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Huddinge: Södertörns högskola, 2017. p. 164
Series
Södertörn Doctoral Dissertations, ISSN 1652-7399 ; 145
Keywords
Responsibility, Sustainability, Supply Chain Management, Governance, Responsibilisation, CSR, Complexity, Uncertainty, Chemicals, Textiles
National Category
Environmental Sciences
Research subject
Environmental Studies; Baltic and East European studies
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:sh:diva-33670 (URN)1744/42/2008 (Local ID)978-91-88663-17-7 (ISBN)978-91-88663-18-4 (ISBN)1744/42/2008 (Archive number)1744/42/2008 (OAI)
Public defence
2017-12-08, MB 416, Alfred Nobels allé 7, Huddinge, 10:00 (English)
Opponent
Supervisors
Funder
The Foundation for Baltic and East European Studies, A035-2008
Available from: 2017-11-17 Created: 2017-11-07 Last updated: 2022-07-04Bibliographically approved

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Boström, MagnusBörjeson, NatasjaGilek, MichaelJönsson, Anna MariaKarlsson, Mikael

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Citation style
  • apa
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  • harvard-anglia-ruskin-university
  • apa-old-doi-prefix.csl
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  • Other style
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  • de-DE
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